Sewing a Circa 1917 Combination Chemise

I've been slowly working my way back through the decades in my sewing, and I feel I've finally started on a point where we transition from "vintage sewing" to "historical costuming". I'm not sure what exactly defines this transition - it just feels a bit odd referring to the 1910's as "Vintage".

I've been eyeing up a lot of patterns from Wearing History, and managed to order a few from the late 1910's. First of all, naturally, is to sew a chemise. I used the 1917 Combination Chemise and opted to print it at home.

I'm going to say this right out - while it wasn't exactly difficult to assemble the thing from home, it's just a tad tedious. Opt for the printed version if you can - I had to lay it out on the floor and did a good number on my knees and back.

The best part about the print-at-home copy is that you can use it right away, which I will admit is quite gratifying.

The mockup came together very quickly. While the original directions were quite sparse, the supplementary instructions provided plenty of additional direction.

It was time to start working on the final garment, and I had freshly laundered a large amount of loose-weave curtain linen I picked up for a steal at a garage sale. I was pretty pleased with myself until I started cutting the bloody thing out.

Just look at that ravelling. It makes me anxious just seeing it again.

Now, despite the loose weave and delicate structure of this fabric, I thought it would be a great idea to plow ahead and hand sew the entire thing. Armed with the American Duchess book and my copy of Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques (both just a little early for a late Edwardian chemise) I sat myself in front of the telly and started sewing the major seams.

French seams were an absolute must. After getting the side seams together I got over the feeling that the whole thing would fall apart in my hands. The weave is loose enough that it can warp and tear if I were to pull it too hard, but it felt sturdy enough as a whole.

Having sewn the major seams it was time to start on the fun stuff - trimmings! Very few of my sewing projects so far have been wild with edgings and trims (something I'm planning on rectifying), so this was novel experience.

The hem is edged with this really lovely lace. On some less ravelly linen this would probably have been quite a pleasure to finish, but I was fighting those loose threads the whole way while rolling the hem.

The neckline is finished with beading and a small lace trim. This beading I have is cute, but manufactured very poorly. The thing had loose threads running all over it, and every now and then I would have to cut one of the pair of eyelets open. I have a lot of this beading left but I'm not going to work with it again if I can help it. I'll keep my lace and beading purchases to reputable sellers and in-person orders.

Despite the battle with the beading, it produced quite a pretty result. I finished the armholes with lace trim in the same way one would do a single-bias facing. The ribbon was threaded through the beading using a large yarn needle and the ends melted with a candle.

The final challenge was the waist beading. The pattern also suggests a drawstring or to leave as-is - next time I think a drawstring or even elastic will suffice.

I pressed the edges of the beading inward, then sewed one side to the chemise, right sides to right sides. I used a slip-stitch to secure it in place, then threaded through a ribbon which could be pulled taut.

Essentially that finished the chemise!

Buttons? What buttons? I don't know what you're talking about.

...very well, let's talk about the buttons. I don't think I even have photos of the buttonholes as they are so appalling. I should have reinforced the tab with another layer of linen or even some interfacing before attempting to sew the closure. The fabric was simply too loose to hold the buttonholes well. And on top of that, I placed the buttonholes too low down on the tab so the flap sticks out in a ridiculous manner. Don't get me wrong, it's functional - I just don't need a photo of it floating around the internet.

Hand sewing this entire thing was certainly gratifying, but another chemise would come together in perhaps an hour with a machine. I would still hand-finish trimmings and edges I think - there's something delicate about hand-finished seams you simply can't replicate with a machine.

This pattern was so easy to follow and I think a great first project for foundation garments. I really couldn't ask for more from it, and I'm looking forward to making more using a more stable linen or cotton, and with some better quality beading.